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Into The Field With NASA: Valley Of Ten Thousand Smokes

Three people, wearing large backpacks, trek across a snow field between hills of dark rubble. In the background: steep, snow-covered mountains under a blue sky.

NASA scientists begin a day’s field research in Katmai National Park.

Credits:
NASA/Patrick Whelley

In June 2024, the Goddard Instrument Field Team (GIFT) hiked deep into the backcountry of Alaska’s Katmai National Park to study the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, site of the largest volcanic eruption of the twentieth century. The team’s task: traverse a vast volcanic debris field layered with glacier ice, gathering data and samples to help us better understand this place on Earth and similar terrain on other worlds.

Composite of two images. Top: Aerial image of a grayscale landscape. In the middle, a dominant dark streak has some areas highlighted in purple. A scale bar shows that this feature is a few hundred meters long. Bottom: Ground-level view of an ice cliff face on an ashy, barren landscape. The ice is partially covered in beige dirt. In the foreground is a black, rounded device on a tripod. The ground is rocky with patches of snow.

Buried glaciers on Mars and Earth. Top: Orbital view of partially-exposed ice beneath an eroding deposit on Mars, from HiRISE. Bottom: Edge-on view of a partially buried glacier in Alaska with a LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) device in the foreground, from the Goddard Instrument Field Team.

Novarupta, the volcano that erupted here in 1912, ejected more than three cubic miles of ash from Earth’s subsurface. The ice nearby is now insulated by, and mixed with, thick layers of geologically “young” volcanic debris. (For comparison, many of the eruption sites NASA teams study are tens of thousands to millions of years old.) Mars, too, has glaciers and ice sheets covered in layers of airfall materials, including dust and volcanic ash.

On Mars, as on Earth, some of the planet’s history is in disguise. Ancient volcanic materials are buried underneath newer deposits of ashy debris. Patterns in these layers (think thickness or thinness, color and texture, chemical and mineral signatures) hold a lot of information, but the message isn’t always clear. Erosion and other surface processes hide evidence of past eruptions, even enormous ones. Since relatively fresh volcanic material blankets the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, it’s an ideal place to observe the early stages of these changes.

Three people on a barren, rocky landscape with hills of grey ash and snow-covered mountains in the background. The researcher on the left kneels and raises a rock hammer, about to collect a sample. Nearby, another scientist props a portable spectrometer up on her shoulder in between uses-- the spectrometer resembles a large, orange and grey blow dryer. The third scientist holds a bag of rock samples and looks at the camera. She has a large pack on her back and hiking poles under her arm.

Cherie Achilles raises a rock hammer as Alexandra Matiella Novak stands by with a hand-held spectrometer and Alice Baldridge holds a container of rock samples. The hand-held spectrometer gives on-the-spot information about what its targets are made of, helping the team decide which samples to collect and bring back to the lab.

In three days of violent eruption, Novarupta blasted an uncommonly wide variety of clays, minerals, and volcanic rocks throughout the surrounding valley. Since then, hot, sulfurous gases have filtered up through underground channels and escaped into the air via countless fumaroles (a.k.a. the “ten thousand smokes”). Fumaroles, together with erosion and other alteration processes, affect how minerals near Novarupta move and change. Research here can help us understand mineral movement and alteration on Mars and other worlds, too. The range of starting materials and alteration patterns in this valley, all from a single eruption, is difficult to match anywhere else.

Person kneeling on reddish-brown, rocky ground, near a small hole, with a steep, snow-patched mountain in the background. They are wearing purple nitrile gloves and holding a tiny, open vial in one hand while digging with the other. A golden wire stretches across the dirt and into the hole in the ground.

Heather Graham studies a fumarole – a place where volcanic gases escape from underground – using a hydrogen sulfide collector and sampling equipment. Their goal: check the fumarole for encrusted evidence that microscopic organisms once lived here, consuming energy and changing the rocks’ composition. Research on these kinds of biosignatures helps us understand what the search for life could look like on other worlds.

It’s a tough field site to access, especially with heavy science instruments. GIFT worked closely with local collaborators including Katmai National Park to coordinate the expedition. After years of planning and months of training, twelve field team members gathered and geared up in Anchorage, Alaska. Two tiny airplane flights, one all-terrain bus ride, and sixteen hiking miles later, they set up a base camp. From there, small groups hiked out and back each day, gathering data and sample material from throughout the valley.

Seven people, with large backpacks, hiking down a hill of lumpy snow dusted with beige volcanic ash. Behind them is a steep wall of dirt with streaks of fresh green shrubbery. The people appear tiny against the landscape and are all in the left half of the image. On the right are overlapping views of three distinct geological formations: a light-colored slope in the foreground, a tan and orange river gorge in the middle ground, and snow-capped mountains in the background, under a partly cloudy sky.

Left to right: Tabb Prissel, Emileigh Shoemaker, Heather Graham, Andrew Johnson, Justin Hayles, Aditi Pandey, and Patrick Whelley hike out of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.

Scientists teamed up to carry large equipment from place to place and bring each other data from far-flung targets. Some results were predictable, like a new library of samples collected from several different “packages” of differently-composed volcanic debris. Some were surprising–like a core sample that came up containing a pocket of empty space instead of buried glacial ice.

Person holding a bulky computer readout attached via a thick cord to a red plastic box with a push handle, on an expanse of beige volcanic ash, with snowy mountain peaks in the background. A tape measure, anchored to the ground with a trekking pole near the red box, extends over a hill into the distance.

Emileigh Shoemaker and her team use Ground Penetrating Radar (the red box shown here is the GPR antenna) to gather information about long stretches of Earth’s subsurface before physically breaking ground. Here, Shoemaker stands on a huge pile of volcanic ash; hidden beneath the debris is a glacier. GPR data, combined with core samples, soil moisture measurements, and pits dug at strategic locations, can reveal how the glacier is preserved.

Analyzing the samples, processing the data, and putting it all together will take time. This is the beginning of GIFT’s Novarupta research, but it’s a chapter of a science story long in the making. Previous studies of the 1912 eruption and its aftermath influenced this expedition’s science plan. The 2024 data and samples, and the new questions arising from the team’s time in the field, are already shaping ideas about future work. NASA has visited before, too. Apollo astronauts and their geology trainers spent time in the Valley in 1965, finding it an unusually Moon-like place to study.

Fieldwork still plays a role in astronaut training–and in advancing lunar science. For example: Novarupta’s chemistry is partly a result of Earth’s plate tectonics. The Moon has volcanic landscapes with similar chemistry, but no tectonic plates. So, what else could explain the parallel? To help address this question, the 2024 team collected samples and ground-truth data from a range of rock formations comparable to the Moon’s Gruithuisen Domes.

Three people, dressed for outdoor work, on a rocky hill in front of a mountainous landscape under an overcast sky. In the middle distance is a huge, dark-colored pile of rubble, shaped like a low dome.

Tabb Prissel, Aditi Pandey, and Justin Hayles at Novarupta. The dome of dark rubble behind the scientists is what’s left of the volcano itself: in 1912, material erupted from this spot buried miles of glaciated valley.

On Earth, the Moon, Mars, and beyond, geologic processes encode pieces of our solar system’s history. Volcanic deposits store details about a world’s insides at the time of an eruption and evidence of what’s happened at the surface since. Rippling fields of sand dunes, gravel, and ash record the influence of wind where atmospheres exist, like on Venus, Mars, and Titan. Glaciers can tell us about climate history and future–and on Mars, ice research also helps to lay the groundwork for human exploration. It’s much easier to take a close look at these features and processes here on Earth than anywhere else. So, to understand planets (including our own), NASA field scientists start close to home.